At the same time, unlike the mining sector and the lapidary industry, the jewelry market has a barrier that is extremely difficult for the neophytes who want to enter this attractive business. This barrier consists in creating a brand, in this case defined as a system of product identifiers, which allows to link it with the expectations of the target group of consumers. It is a successful solution to this problem that allows you to ensure the necessary level of sales and the corresponding rate of profit. The creation of a jewelry brand, in our opinion, is not directly determined by the number of funds invested in the project, nor by the attraction of new technologies and design solutions. This is primarily a creative information task and it should be solved by appropriate means.

"Marketing Constants" of jewelry brands

What fundamentally distinguishes the brand Bvlgari from Cartier or, for example, Tiffany from Harry Winston? Outstanding quality? Applying the best materials? The skill of jewelers? Exceptionally expressive original design? Fidelity to traditions? Modern technologies? Obviously, any of the above criteria is equally satisfied by any famous jewelry brand. It is impossible to say that the product from Cartier is inferior to the Harry Winston product in the skill of the jeweler or the quality of diamonds. Moreover, all listed criteria are some "marketing constants" necessarily present in the information flow, designed by marketers of the respective companies.

In fact, today with the help of only such "constants" an effective brand can not be designed for quite objective reasons. If even 50 - 100 years ago it made sense to talk about any branded secrets of jewelry mastery, then modern technologies allow "deciphering" a new alloy, or the way of cutting, or the fastening system, etc. during few hours. The original design of the collection remains so only until the appearance of products on the pages of catalogs and on Internet sites.

Generally speaking, "technological complexity" or "new technologies" in jewelry business is a very conventional concept. Due to a number of restrictions imposed, including anthropometric characteristics, jewelry technologies are quite primitive compared, for example, with modern microelectronics. Appropriate equipment is relatively cheap and affordable. Which, by the way, allows mass production of high-quality counterfeit products of famous brands in the APR countries. It is also worth noting that companies - owners of powerful jewelry brands, as a rule, do not disclose information about the place of production of their serial products, which suggests the drift of production in the direction of South-East Asia. It is indicative that today, even in the most technologically complex sector of the jewelry industry - the watch industry, there is a total unification: Mechanisms for almost all known watch brands are made by only three firms: Miyota, Seiko and Eta. Today, jewelry houses in principle can not have any "long-living" original technological and design know-how - competitors are able to intercept any successful novelties literally at the time of their birth.

Thus, the construction of a jewelry brand based on standard "marketing constants" is meaningless today - it is obviously impossible to achieve more competitive "quality", "skill", "design" than that of Cartier and other market leaders. It remains to derive these "constants" from brackets and see what is in the balance and what factors actually determine the effectiveness of the brand.

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Argentum Aurum. Jewelry collections sold under this brand are clearly associated with certain historical periods and, accordingly, with social ideas dominating in these periods. For example, the IMPERIUM ROMANUM collection is given in the following key: "In the collection IMPERIUM ROMANUM the archetypes of antiquity are embodied in replicas of Roman rings and in modern interpretations of ancient culture. Each product has its own history, each of them has a special meaning! In them the fate of a great civilization! The triumphs of Caesar and the glory of Roman arms, the death of the legions of Quintillius Varre and the victory of Trajan! The firmness of princeps and the prowess of a citizen. The memory of the glorious men with their valor gained the glory of the Republic and created the power of the Empire. The greatness of the eagles of the Roman legions, whose iron footsteps remember the lands of the Mediterranean! "

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Duce. A vivid example of the conceptual brand, frankly exploiting some fascist ideas, the fashion for which is clearly now becoming stronger. The epigraph to the advertising texts is an ambiguous quote from the revelations of former Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi: "Mussolini did not kill people, but simply sent them on vacation!".

The very advertising texts are completely transparent: "Duce - a symbol of unity, strength and justice! Duce-style of new leaders! Leaders who are conscious of their mission and represent the people moving forward. Such a leader must speak great words, encourage people to do great things and great ideas. People free, strong, bright and able to fight! For struggle is the source of all things, therefore all life is full of contrasts: love and hatred; White and black; day and night; good and evil; And until these contrasts come to equilibrium, struggle as the highest fatalism will always be the basis of human nature. In the end, it's good that this is so. Today there is a military, economic, ideological struggle, but the day when we would no longer fight would be a day of melancholy, end, destruction. However, this day will not come. If we now return to the world, Tranquility and silence, then the struggle against the current trends of the present dynamic period would begin. We must prepare for new surprises, for a new struggle. We represent moral and spiritual strength. We must have the spirit, and morality, which gives strength to our decisions and compelling obedience. We do not believe in a single solution, be it economic, political or moral; We do not believe in a straightforward solution to life's problems, for life is not straightforward, it can never be reduced to a limited segment of primary needs. We deny the possibility of a materialistic understanding of "happiness," we deny equality: "welfare-happiness," which would turn people into cattle, thinking of one thing: being content and saturated, that is, limited to simple and purely plant life. Our idea is the will to power and domination!

Duce-dictatorship of style! " Of course, the portrait of Benito Mussolini is present on the branded packaging and certificates. In connection with the generally accepted in civilized countries taboo on the swastika, the design of products exploited the theme of Roman imperial symbols, but stylized in such a way as to evoke obvious associations with the heyday of the fascist dictatorships of the twentieth century. Some ornaments (eg cufflinks "Duce") openly copy the stylistics of the uniform rings of SS officers.


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Conceptual brands
The word "conceptual" is often found in publications dedicated to the jewelry business. However, most often this term denotes some designer delights, the essence of which neither the author, nor marketers simply can not clearly formulate. We under the "conceptual" jewelry brand will understand the marketing technology that assumes that the basis for the information flow by which the brand is promoted on the market is not the "Family Company History" or "The Genuine Jeweler's Personality", but the "Global Social Idea" A priori in demand by a wide range of potential buyers.


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Brands of this type, to which one can also include French JAR, Italian Nouvelle Bague , etc. In general, less powerful than the "historical" brands. From the information point of view, they are very vulnerable: the demise or exit from the business of the "genius" that defines the brand can create serious difficulties for its existence. Even the most successful in this class , etc. In general, less powerful than the "historical" brands. From the information point of view, they are very vulnerable: the demise or exit from the business of the "genius" that defines the brand can create serious difficulties for its existence. Even the most successful in this class, H.Stern, aspiring to turn into the "Historical Family Firm", clearly experiences significant difficulties in forming the image of the successor of "genius Hans": "In the 80s. Robert Stern, son of Hans, joined the family business, despite the lack of experience in jewelry production. "Being unfamiliar with decorations, I brought a fresh perspective to the business," says Robert, Who is the creative director of the company. Robert invited his design team to observe the behavior of people, for fashion, art, music. He followed his creative talent, sought new ideas, taught designers to accept every new challenge ... ". Such messages generated by marketers H.Stern, only prove that it is very difficult to persuade the consumer, especially the constant client, that the genius will necessarily be replaced by an even more genius descendant. In this sense, the principle of "continuity of school traditions", characteristic of "historical" brands, and allowing very broad interpretations, gives much more sustainable content than a fantastic "sequence of geniuses."




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De Grisogono . The company was founded in 1993 by Fawaz Gruosi, whose "genius personality" is the basis for the information flow generated by the company's marketers. " Fawaz Gruosi made a career as a jeweler thanks to desperate experiments that always miraculously ended with a complete success with the public ... Fawaz Gruozi, who knows perfectly well both the jewelry market and the work of his rivals, does not now set himself the usual task of hitting devotees,

Offer them something exceptional, something unusual. His "chocolate" items - whether rings, earrings or watches, additionally equipped with diamonds and multi-colored sapphires - have a very read seasonal, glamorous note ... Here comes the familiar Florentine Gruosi, never giving a carnival game failure ... Creative and tireless Fawaz Gruosi was the first in the watch and jewelry world who offered women's watches with bracelets of shagreen ... "; Ananov. Appeared on the market in the early 90-ies of the twentieth century. It is hardly the only Russian world-class jewelry brand. Fully associated with the identity of the founder and owner Andrei Ananov. Theater director for the first specialty, A. Ananov professionally owns the management of information flow. The author of several biographical books, Film and television stories, numerous articles and interviews devoted to their own extravagant adventures, rotation in higher spheres, and, of course, containing brilliant essays on jewelry creation. Andrey Ananov is the  most famous jeweler in Russia. Moreover, he is a social phenomenon, symbolizing our life in recent decades, almost a literary character with stories of theater directing, underground jewelry work, the onslaught of a young capitalist and confidence in the new Russian wealth ... A. Ananov: my goal is not money, the goal is to stay in history Russia as a great Russian jeweler! "



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Brands on the principle of "Genius Jeweler"
This is a class of relatively young, but nevertheless quite successful brands, based on marketing models which are not based on the "History of the Family Firm", but "The Personality of the Genuine Jeweler."

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The work of the American special services allowed us to assume that the source of rough diamonds for the military industry of the Third Reich could be De Beers. This partly confirmed the strange reluctance of Ernst Oppenheimer to take the drains of De Beers to the United States. In this case, their exact composition and volume became known not only to a circle of elected employees of the corporation, and the question of how Germany in the 1930s became a major exporter of a diamond tool - fell away by itself. After receiving the "Belgian file", the US Department of Justice initiated the prosecution of De Beers. But in 1945 the case was closed without any consequences, except for the liquidation of De Beers' accounts in American banks.

This was not the only case of this kind, considered by the American Themis. The US intelligence services assembled an impressive dossier on the world's largest oil company Standard Oil. Details were impressive: German crews on Standard Oil tankers, transshipment bases in the Canaries, where oil was pumped into German tankers, refueling German submarines at specially created island bases, direct deliveries of synthetic rubber to Germany and before and after Pearl Harbor, transfer Nazis technology for the production of synthetic fuel, financial ties with the leader of the Nazi defense industry concern "IG Farbenindustrie", the supply of petroleum products to Germany through Spain and North Africa ... T lko through Franco Nazis received monthly 48 thousand tons of oil Texan! And this is in 1944!

As a result of Senate and judicial investigations, Standard Oil suffered a "well-deserved" punishment for cooperation with Hitler - a fine of 50,000 (fifty thousand) dollars and confiscation of the patents received from IG Farbenindustrie in favor of the state.

The facts of cooperation during the Second World War of the largest transnational corporations with the Nazis have always been a secret of the Polishinel. The scale of this process was so significant and the number of people involved in it is so great that it is impossible to keep this regrettable phenomenon in secret or, at least, it was impossible to consign to oblivion. The invoice for the supply of strategic goods (and the financial provision of these transactions) by Anglo-American corporations to the Third Reich is plentiful and reliable, it is set out in hundreds of articles and pages of impressive monographs like Charles Highham's Trading With The Enemy : An Exposure of The Nazi-American Money Plot 1933-1949, New York, 1983).

What is the reason for this historical paradox, which is obviously incompatible with the notions of morality, patriotism and national interests? Throughout most of the second half of the twentieth century, most researchers categorically responded to this question - the reason was the excess profits. Indeed, the Third Reich was able from time to time to pay for the services of strategic goods suppliers, and to pay generously. Despite the fact that by 1936 the gold and currency reserves of Germany had almost zeroed, and since 1939 the Germans were rapidly losing markets for their main exports (industrial equipment, cars, chemical products, weapons), the seizure of European countries, beginning with the Anschluss of Austria, allowed Hitler to operate Looted gold and other convertible values. This opportunity was provided to the Nazis not without the help of British state structures. In November 1938, the government of Czechoslovakia, reasonably assuming the early occupation of the country by the Germans, forwarded its gold reserves - about 80 tons of noble metal to the cellars of the Bank of England. In March 1939, fully occupied Czechoslovakia, Hitler asked to return this gold. Bank of England Governor Montague Normann and Minister of Finance John Simon asked the Fiihrer to kindly agree. No less strange history occurred with 200 tons of Belgian gold, also returned to the Reich from African colonies, where the Belgian government managed to hide it shortly before the occupation of the country. The very Belgian government (and secret information about the location of the Belgian gold reserve) at that time was in exile - in London. During the occupation of Belgium, the Nazis captured in Antwerp a decent number of diamonds of jewelery quality and diamonds. This expensive product was by no means used for technical purposes. Through large diamond dealers, it was sold in the US, in third countries, dollar accounts were opened, through which the supply of strategic raw materials, including technical diamonds, was paid. For such calculations, also used convertible Swiss francs, which Germany received by placing in the banks of the "Zurich gnomes" the loot (including Holocaust victims) gold. In third countries, dollar accounts were opened, through which the supply of strategic raw materials, including technical diamonds, was paid. For such calculations, also used convertible Swiss francs, which Germany received by placing in the banks of the "Zurich gnomes" the loot (including Holocaust victims) gold. In third countries, dollar accounts were opened, through which the supply of strategic raw materials, including technical diamonds, was paid. For such calculations, also used convertible Swiss francs, which Germany received by placing in the banks of the "Zurich gnomes" looted (including Holocaust victims) gold.

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In the 30s of the last century, the only country that exported raw diamonds, whose government was loyal to Hitler, was Brazil. The rest of the important exporters (primarily South Africa) were either part of the British Commonwealth, and De Beers Corporation directly controlled the production and marketing, or control was carried out through agreements with the CSR (for example, Forminière in the Belgian Congo).

In Brazil in the fall of 1930, as a result of a military coup, charismatic dictator Joselio Vargas came to power, professing ideas close to the end of the "corporate state" Benito Mussolini. Vargas did take a number of steps towards rapprochement with Nazi Germany, but at the same time intensively developed ties with the United States, trying to balance between powerful players. This game was relatively short-lived: in 1938 the radical army circles attempted a fascist putsch and Vargas had to make a choice. After suppressing the putsch, it finally took the side of the US and already in 1942 the Brazilian forces fought in Italy on the side of the Allies.

Brazilian placer diamond deposits were worked out by miners, not united in any large companies. Centralized management of such production, and even more so to predict it, was impossible. A number of attempts to organize industrial mining using modern mining equipment failed for both economic reasons and because of the instability of the political situation in the mining areas. In addition, in alluvial deposits, the percentage of crystals of jewelry quality is usually higher than in indigenous, garimpeiros are interested in just such diamonds, they are not enthusiastic about technical diamonds. Therefore, theoretically, Brazil from 1933 to 1938 could be a source of technical diamonds for the Third Reich, but the source is extremely scarce and unreliable.

Between 1939 and 1944, the world mining of technical diamonds amounted to 54.08 million carats. It is believed that the US military-industrial complex spent about 30 million carats during the Second World War. Since the combined capacity of the military-industrial complex of the United States and its allies was comparable to that of the Axis countries (otherwise the war would not have lasted so long), one should admit, guided by considerations of common sense, that the military-industrial complex of Germany, Italy and Japan needed to annually consume millions of carats of technical diamonds. Obviously, the share of Brazil in these supplies at best is calculated in terms of percents.

Nevertheless, a number of modern sources say that in the German metal-working equipment supplied to the USSR in 1936-1941, Brazilian technical diamonds were used. Moreover, it is argued that the Soviet Union received Brazilian diamonds and direct supplies. Thus, the slippery question of supplying totalitarian powers with strategic material receives a seemingly consistent answer - the source was also a dictatorial regime. Extremely convenient point of view, especially since accurate information on the volume and structure of production and distribution channels of Brazilian garimpeiros does not exist in principle.

Two people could give exhaustive explanations on this problem. The Minister of Armaments of Germany, Albert Speer, was obliged to know from his post how, in what quantity and on what terms the Third Reich received diamonds. He freely writes in Memoirs about the supply, for example, of alloying materials from Norway, Finland, Turkey, but Brazil does not mention a word as a source of strategic raw materials. Speer published the "Memoirs" in 1969, after spending more than 20 years in Spandau as one of the main Nazi criminals. There is no doubt that this book bears the imprint of both external and internal censorship. Is it really for Speer and his censors that the bright image of the Brazilian dictator Joselio Vargas, the second person who could accurately answer the question of interest to us, was so important? Hardly,

Most likely Speer did not mention Vargas for the simple reason that the supply of diamonds from Brazil, if they were, did not play any significant role for the German military industry. The only world market that Brazil could really influence in the 30s and 40s is the coffee market. The resource is important, but infinitely far from the sphere of interests of Speer. An attempt to give the Brazilian dictator an image of a super-player supplying strategic raw materials to the opposing sides of the world conflict looks like a "cover-up operation," a successful masking of a real process in which a completely different player really had such capabilities. But Speer could not mention this player, if (in contrast to Rudolf Hess) after suffering ordeals he wanted to quietly die in his own bed.

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Once Saudi Sheikh Yamani, one of the founding fathers of OPEC, answering the question: "How much does the price of oil depend on OPEC decisions, and how much on market factors?" Remarked: "The first two digits (to the point) are determined by OPEC, and the last (After the decimal point) are fundamental factors. " The idea that modern markets are more or less manageable, shared by almost all players and analysts, this is not a revelation. Problems arise when trying to determine the motives of players capable of generating a control pulse. The postulate of obvious economic expediency, underlying the behavior of any market participant, allows you to create more or less reliable forecasting structures using the conceptual apparatus of technical and fundamental analysis. But from time to time there are data that contradict the usual models.

Virtually all serious sources categorically state that the De Beers Corporation refused to cooperate with Hitler's Germany. The central sales organization of the diamond monopoly blocked the sale of diamonds to the Third Reich, this circumstance had a very negative impact on the development of the German defense industry and served as one of the indirect causes of the military defeat of the Nazi state.

Indeed, De Beers Corporation has always been and remains the pearl of the British crown, headed by the Oppenheimer family - ethnic Jews from Germany and traditionally has close ties with the banking houses of the Rothschilds and Morgan. This, of course, serious circumstances for the emergence of unavoidable contradictions with the author of "Mein Kampf." It was in 1933 (by the time Hitler came to power) that the London Diamond Syndicate was transformed into the Central Sales Organization, whose president was the owner of De Beers, Ernst Oppenheimer. In the 30s - 40s, sales of about 94% of the world diamond mining were carried out through the CSO, so that "De Beers", no doubt, was able to completely cut off the supplies of Germany.

Germany was a pioneer in the use of technical diamonds, first as abrasives for grinding the world's best optics Zeiss. In 1927, Krupp patented the material "Widia" (wie Diamant - "as a diamond"). This agglomerate of tungsten carbide and cobalt has revolutionized metalworking - the speed and purity of cutting the hardest steels have increased by orders of magnitude. But to sharpen the incisors of Widia could only be a diamond tool. Approximately at the same time, German engineering firms create and implement technologies and a diamond tool for finishing honing, which allows increasing the life of motor vehicles, aircraft, tanks and submarines by several times. In turn, there were diamond wire dies for radio electronics and dozens, if not hundreds, of diamond applications in the military-industrial complex.

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