Monday, October 30, 2017

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Sunday, October 8, 2017

Most cultures at some point have had a practice of keeping large amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewellery

Humans have used jewellery for a number of different reasons:
  • functional, generally to fix clothing or hair in place, or to tell the time (in the case of watches)
  • as a marker of social status and personal status, as with a wedding ring
  • as a signifier of some form of affiliation, whether ethnic, religious or social
  • to provide talismanic protection (in the form of amulets)[4]
  • as an artistic display
  • as a carrier or symbol of personal meaning – such as love, mourning, or even luck
Most cultures at some point have had a practice of keeping large amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Numerous cultures store wedding dowries in the form of jewellery or make jewellery as a means to store or display coins. Alternatively, jewellery has been used as a currency or trade good; an example being the use of slave beads.[citation needed]
Many items of jewellery, such as brooches and buckles, originated as purely functional items, but evolved into decorative items as their functional requirement diminished.[5]
Jewellery can also symbolise group membership (as in the case, of the Christian crucifix or the Jewish Star of David) or status (as in the case of chains of office, or the Western practice of married people wearing wedding rings).
Wearing of amulets and devotional medals to provide protection or ward off evil is common in some cultures. These may take the form of symbols (such as the ankh), stones, plants, animals, body parts (such as the Khamsa), or glyphs (such as stylised versions of the Throne Verse in Islamic art).[6]

Materials and methods[edit]

In creating jewellery, gemstonescoins, or other precious items are often used, and they are typically set into precious metals. Alloys of nearly every metal known have been encountered in jewellery. Bronze, for example, was common in Roman times. Modern fine jewellery usually includes goldwhite goldplatinumpalladiumtitanium, or silver. Most contemporary gold jewellery is made of an alloy of gold, the purity of which is stated in karats, indicated by a number followed by the letter K. American gold jewellery must be of at least 10K purity (41.7% pure gold), (though in the UK the number is 9K (37.5% pure gold) and is typically found up to 18K (75% pure gold). Higher purity levels are less common with alloys at 22 K (91.6% pure gold), and 24 K (99.9% pure gold) being considered too soft for jewellery use in America and Europe. These high purity alloys, however, are widely used across Asia, the Middle East and Africa.[citation needed] Platinum alloys range from 900 (90% pure) to 950 (95.0% pure). The silver used in jewellery is usually sterling silver, or 92.5% fine silver. In costume jewellerystainless steel findings are sometimes used.
Bead embroidery design.
Other commonly used materials include glass, such as fused-glass or enamelwood, often carved or turned; shells and other natural animal substances such as bone and ivory; natural claypolymer clay; Hemp and other twines have been used as well to create jewellery that has more of a natural feel. However, any inclusion of lead or lead solder will give an English Assay office (the building which gives English jewellery its stamp of approval, the Hallmark) the right to destroy the piece, however it is very rare for the assay office to do so.
Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass, gemstones, metal, wood, shells, clay and polymer clay. Beaded jewellery commonly encompasses necklacesbraceletsearringsbelts and rings. Beads may be large or small; the smallest type of beads used are known as seed beads, these are the beads used for the "woven" style of beaded jewellery. Another use of seed beads is an embroidery technique where seed beads are sewn onto fabric backings to create broad collar neck pieces and beaded bracelets. Bead embroidery, a popular type of handwork during the Victorian era, is enjoying a renaissance in modern jewellery making. Beading, or beadwork, is also very popular in many African and indigenous North American cultures.
Silversmithsgoldsmiths, and lapidaries methods include forgingcastingsoldering or welding, cutting, carving and "cold-joining" (using adhesivesstaples and rivets to assemble parts).[7]

Diamonds[edit]

Diamonds
Diamonds were first mined in India.[8] Pliny may have mentioned them, although there is some debate as to the exact nature of the stone he referred to as Adamas;[9] In 2005, AustraliaBotswanaRussia and Canada ranked among the primary sources of gemstone diamond production.[10] There are negative consequences of the diamond trade in certain areas. Diamonds mined during the recent civil wars in AngolaIvory CoastSierra Leone, and other nations have been labelled as blood diamonds when they are mined in a war zone and sold to finance an insurgency.
The British crown jewels contain the Cullinan Diamond, part of the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75 carats (621.35 g).
Now popular in engagement rings, this usage dates back to the marriage of Maximilian I to Mary of Burgundy in 1477.[11]

Other gemstones[edit]

Many precious and semiprecious stones are used for jewellery. Among them are:
Amber
Amber, an ancient organic gemstone, is composed of tree resin that has hardened over time. The stone must be at least one million years old to be classified as amber, and some amber can be up to 120 million years old.
Amethyst
Amethyst has historically been the most prized gemstone in the quartz family. It is treasured for its purple hue, which can range in tone from light to dark.
Spanish emerald and gold pendant at Victoria and Albert Museum.
Emerald
Emeralds are one of the three main precious gemstones (along with rubies and sapphires) and are known for their fine green to bluish green colour. They have been treasured throughout history, and some historians report that the Egyptians mined emerald as early as 3500 BC.
Jade
Jade is most commonly associated with the colour green but can come in a number of other colours as well. Jade is closely linked to Asian culture, history, and tradition, and is sometimes referred to as the stone of heaven.
Jasper
Jasper is a gemstone of the chalcedony family that comes in a variety of colours. Often, jasper will feature unique and interesting patterns within the coloured stone. Picture jasper is a type of jasper known for the colours (often beiges and browns) and swirls in the stone’s pattern.
Quartz
Quartz refers to a family of crystalline gemstones of various colours and sizes. Among the well-known types of quartz are rose quartz (which has a delicate pink colour), and smoky quartz (which comes in a variety of shades of translucent brown). A number of other gemstones, such as Amethyst and Citrine, are also part of the quartz family. Rutilated quartz is a popular type of quartz containing needle-like inclusions.
Ruby
Rubies are known for their intense red colour and are among the most highly valued precious gemstones. Rubies have been treasured for millennia. In Sanskrit, the word for ruby is ratnaraj, meaning king of precious stones.
Sapphire
The most popular form of sapphire is blue sapphire, which is known for its medium to deep blue colour and strong saturation. Fancy sapphires of various colours are also available. In the United States, blue sapphire tends to be the most popular and most affordable of the three major precious gemstones (emerald, ruby, and sapphire).
Turquoise
Turquoise is found in only a few places on earth, and the world’s largest turquoise producing region is the southwest United States. Turquoise is prized for its attractive colour, most often an intense medium blue or a greenish blue, and its ancient heritage. Turquoise is used in a great variety of jewellery styles. It is perhaps most closely associated with southwest and Native American jewellery, but it is also used in many sleek, modern styles. Some turquoise contains a matrix of dark brown markings, which provides an interesting contrast to the gemstone’s bright blue colour.
Some gemstones (like pearls, coral, and amber) are classified as organic, meaning that they are produced by living organisms. Others are inorganic, meaning that they are generally composed of and arise from minerals.
Some gems, for example, amethyst, have become less valued as methods of extracting and importing them have progressed. Some man-made gems can serve in place of natural gems, such as cubic zirconia, which can be used in place of diamond.[12]

Saturday, September 30, 2017

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Thursday, August 3, 2017

In 1890 (just two years after the founding of De Beers) in England, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's novel "Girdlestone Trading House" was published. One of the plotlines of this book is directly related to the diamond market, and here the creator of Sherlock Holmes made two amazing prophecies: in fact he predicted the possibility of discovering colossal diamond deposits in Russia and formulated the hypothesis that the diamond market is in reality not a commodity market but a market Information. The main character, a large speculator from the City, is going to arrange a corner on diamonds. "Corner" in this case - the term of stock slang, meaning the situation in the market, when control over certain assets completely passes to one player, thus receiving the opportunity to arbitrarily manage the price, While the rest of the market participants are forced to play on its terms, being as if driven into a corner, hence the corner (in English "corner"). To the question of the amazed companion "How can you control the prices of diamonds, this requires at least the capital of Rothschild?" The hero responds with an elegant combination - in Russia the expedition that he organized "opens" a huge (alas, virtual) diamond deposit, and the second expedition intensively purchases real diamonds from the prospectors of the Cape Colony in South Africa, panicking at the news that the market is about to be flooded with Russian products , And therefore ready to part with the crystals at bargain prices. After the news from Russia turns out to be a bluff, prices will return to the previous level and the required profit will be provided.

Of course, any commodity market is sensitive to information about the discovery of new deposits, the political situation in the extracting countries, the improvement of technologies for processing this raw material, the creation of new industries where it can be claimed, etc. But any raw material eventually turns into a product with a use value. And if the use value of a gallon of gasoline or a bushel of rice is quite obvious to the final buyer and certainly correlates with the price, then it can not be said with respect to the diamond. It would be incorrect to say that diamonds do not have any use value at all - they, of course, satisfy the social and aesthetic needs of their customers and owners. But, filling in the tank of his car with gasoline, the consumer, as a rule, is able to realize themselves, Why forty liters cost twice as much as twenty, and why the types of fuel with different octane numbers differ in price. At the same time, any gemologist will confirm the possibility of a situation where two diamonds of almost equal diamonds with the same type of cut have differences in color, purity and cut quality that are not discernible to the naked eye, but account for a significant difference in price, up to several tens of percent. This circumstance fundamentally distinguishes the diamond market from any commodity market. The ultimate buyer of diamonds may be concerned about the need to demonstrate their status, romantic feelings or the need to experience aesthetic pleasure from playing the stone. But in any case, the realization of these needs does not involve a situation where gorgeous diamonds in rings, earrings or necklaces, Consecrated by famous jewelry brands, will be exposed at the reception by the owner's choking girlfriends with research using a binocular microscope while simultaneously consulting a pair of gemological laboratory experts. Thus, in the diamond market, a situation is possible when two pieces of goods, equivalent in use value, have a different price. And the difference is determined by the expert, i.e. To a certain extent subjective, information about subthreshold conditions for ordinary vision, in which the diamond is "operated", color boundaries, microinclusions and defects, angles of inclination and corrugation of faces, etc. It's about the same as if the car salesman told the buyer: "Here are two serial cars of the model you have chosen: they are exactly the same in everything - the body type, color, Engine, salon ... But by methods of non-destructive testing we found that here this car hub metal left front wheel contains carbon at 0.00003% more. This does not affect either safety, or power, or speed, in fact this does not affect any consumer property. But since there is more carbon, we ask for this sample at $ 1,760 more! "At best, a car dealer will find that the seller spent a stormy night in the nearest pub.

However, the reasoning about the two diamonds, the difference in the price of which is conditioned by the parameters that do not affect their "exploitation" properties - is a very soft example in our time, when the concepts of traditional values tend to their negation. Absolute proof of the lack of a connection between use value, gemological characteristics and price is the commercial success of the so-called "black diamonds", which can be observed over the past ten years. A piece of crystalline carbon, saturated with graphite inclusions until it is completely opaque, gets a diamond cut and becomes a market hit, whereas just a decade ago this gemologist's nightmare could only claim the category "board" and was traded as a technical raw material with a red price of $ 1 per carat.

But what about the case when the end user of a diamond considers his acquisition as an object of investment? Maybe then the certification characteristics come in accordance with the use value? Alas, if you do not take into account the innumerable texts of glamorous publications inspired by the famous formula "A diamond is forever!", And confine yourself to professional research of the investment potential of diamonds, then it's easy to come to a disappointing conclusion: a profitable investment in diamonds is a myth. Of course, diamonds belong to irreplaceable natural resources, and, indeed, the price moves upward on long timeframes and on certain categories of diamonds and diamonds at a rate faster than inflation. But this is not enough - to make the asset attractive to investment, a mechanism is needed, Guaranteed to ensure its instant liquidity. Purchase and sale of the "blue chip" is carried out in a fraction of a second anywhere in the world from any computer connected to the exchange system. And how long will it take and what will be the procedure for selling an investment diamond in the event that its owner finds that the price has reasonably grown over a certain period of storage? It's not that time will be required more than the stock market, the fact is that this time is not defined at all. As the mechanism of sale is not defined, so-called "diamond exchanges" have nothing in common with modern exchange trade and in essence are medieval urban markets. The truth is that sellers, who provide the end user with diamonds, In general, do not act as dealing structures in the secondary market, and simply speaking, there is simply no structured market for investment diamonds. The only exception is historical stones - this is really an investment product, but its liquidity is provided by the mechanisms of a completely different market - the antiques market.

http://rough-polished.com/ru/analytics/16175.html
The main revenues increased by 14%, amounting to 483 million US dollars; (In 2006, the main income was US $ 425 million.) Before-tax profit, interest and depreciation (EBITDA) remained at about the same level, thanks to efficient management of costs in the Group's mining operations in Africa, offsetting a slight decrease in sales , Caused by restrictions on the supply of raw materials to the Diamond Trading Company (DTC).

Over the past year, the Group has invested $ 1.12 billion in capital formation, which reflects our confidence in the long-term prospects of the diamond market. Basically, these investments were invested in the construction of the Snap Lake and Victor mines in Canada, the Foorspod career in South Africa, and the offshore SASA project off the west coast of South Africa.

Extraction

● De Beers production in 2007 was 51.1 million carats, remaining at a record high level, as in 2006;
● Debswana, a joint venture between De Beers and the government of Botswana, remains the largest diamond mining company in the De Beers Group, accounting for 33.6 million carats;
● De Beers Consolidated Mines (DBCM) in South Africa increased production to 15 million carats, mainly through the use of advanced diamond recovery technology at the Venichia mine, where production increased by 9%;
● Marine production in Namibia has increased, so Namdeb, a joint venture with the Namibian government, produced 2.2 million carats, which is 4% more than in the previous year.

Prospects of extraction

The Group is currently implementing the following new projects, as well as conducting intensive geological exploration:

● Production at the Snap Lake mine in the Northwest Territories of Canada began in late 2007. Currently, the facility is put into operation, after reaching full capacity in 2008, the annual production will be approximately 1.4 million carats ;
● In mid-2008, production will begin at the Victor mine in Canada, where it is planned to mine 600,000 carats of high-quality diamond annually;
● In mid-2007, the ship Peace in Africa began mining from the seabed off the Atlantic coast of South Africa. The design capacity is approximately 0.2 million carats per year;
● The Faorspåd quarry, located in South Africa's Fristeit province, will start production in the fourth quarter of 2008, and it is planned to mine 0.7 million carats annually;
● Boteti Exploration Company, a joint venture company formed by De Beers, Eric Diamonds PiELSi and Vati Ventures, applied for a production license on the AK06 tube located in Botswana in the vicinity of the Orapa mine. The estimated reserves of this field are 11.1 million carats;
● Successful work is under way in the exploration project in Gacho Kue, in the Northwest Territories of Canada, a drilling program has been fully implemented, planned for the winter and summer period, the process of necessary environmental approvals has begun;
● De Beers spent $ 126 million on geological exploration in 2007, a significant portion of which was spent in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, as well as in Angola, Botswana and South Africa, where new and already started projects are being implemented. In Congo and Angola, we focused our efforts on working on promising areas in order to move quickly to the next stage of research. In 2007, De Beers geologists discovered 45 new kimberlite bodies, in 2008 we will drill and evaluate the economic efficiency of these promising sites;
● In 2008, De Beers plans to maintain production at the same level as in 2007. New enterprises in Canada, with a production volume of more than 1.5 million carats, should compensate for the decrease in volumes due to the sale of the Kulinan and Kimberly mines in South Africa;
● On February 4, 2008, De Beers Consolidated Mines received a notification from the Ministry of Natural Resources and Energy of South Africa about the granting of a new mining license to it at the Venichia mine, which the company will receive in March.

Demand

● Demand for rough diamonds, purchased from Diamond Trading Company, remained at a high level throughout the year. As a result of the decline in demand for diamonds, in late 2006, there was a decline in prices, but the positive dynamics of the market allowed starting the price increase from the second quarter of 2007;
● The growth in sales of jewelry with diamonds amounted to about 3% last year. Especially large growth in sales was noted in China, India and the Middle East, which compensated for the unsatisfactory results of the Christmas sales season in the US, where, due to the volatile economic environment, the decline in consumer demand was noted.

http://rough-polished.com/ru/analytics/14575.html
So, multi-colored fancy fairy tales with duchesses, wives of presidents, Hollywood actresses, great scientists and dandies, a beggarly descent and brilliant success - in the time interval of 100 - 150 years. Texts of this kind, in huge quantities continuously distributed in glossy "glamorous" magazines, on relevant Internet sites, in "stylish" TV programs, etc. Are by no means the unselfish creativity of some fans - the chroniclers of jewelry firms, but they are carefully constructed content that makes up the informational basis of the brand, on which traditional "marketing constants" are hung. On the example of the top ten market, it can be argued that the power of the jewelry brand is a direct function of its "History". Of course, the true story in this case is just "raw materials"

No "History of the Family Firm" - there is no brand. This circumstance explains the numerous failures of the neophytes of the jewelry market. You can buy the most advanced technologies and copy a good design (or even create an original one), but without "History" the jewelry remains faceless, therefore, not competitive, because to form the appropriate information flow (and this is the main tool in this market) there simply is not a database . And "History" in this case is created by means and methods that have nothing in common with the jewelry market proper and it is the lack of understanding of this circumstance that leads to setbacks. The palliative solution is the alliances of De Beers and Leviev Group with the "historical" brands LVMH and Bvlgary, but so far there have been no serious successes on this path.

http://rough-polished.com/ru/analytics/1937.html


- Mikimoto "Mikimoto was born in 1858 in the Japanese town of Tobo to a family of a noodle merchant. His path to the pearl throne began in 1888, when Mikimoto became interested in the famous local product - pearls Izie. One hundred and ten years ago, in 1893 Mikimoto received his first cultured pearl. In 1927, during a trip to the US and Europe, Mikimoto visited the inventor Thomas Edison. Presenting the pearl to the famous American, he heard the words that sounded the highest praise from the mouth of a man who, in his experience, knew the value of many discoveries: "This is not cultivated, but natural pearls. There are two things that can not be obtained in my laboratory - diamond and pearls! "... One of the most dazzling combinations is the fusion of pearls and diamonds. Mikimoto jewelers own a patent for "implanting" diamonds into a "pearl body". The brilliance of diamonds perfectly improves the natural beauty of pearls. "

http://rough-polished.com/ru/analytics/1937.html
- Cartier . "In 1847, in the business register of the founder of the company - Louis Francois Cartier was written:" produces jewelry, various fashionable jewelry, novelties "... Many of the canonical things Cartier were created at the request of famous contemporaries. So it was with the Santos watch, coined 103 years ago for one of the main dandies of the era of Albert Santos-Dumont ... In 1933, for the Duchess of Windsor, a unique platinum brooch "Panther" was decorated, decorated with a diamond pave with "spots" of black onyx ... ";

http://rough-polished.com/ru/analytics/1937.html

- Tiffany & Co . "In 1837, the natives of New England, school friends Charles Tiffany and John Young, moved to New York. For wealthy parents, they took 500 dollars and on Broadway they opened a shop of antiques and jewelry called Tiffany & Young. As a jewelry company about Tiffany & Young began talking in 1851 - it is then that her silverware is recognized worldwide. But the truly stellar hour of the company came in 10 years: during the inauguration of US President Abraham Lincoln, his wife puts on a pearl set from Tiffany. And a few years later at the international jewelry exhibition in Paris, Tiffany & Co became the first American firm to receive an award for its products ... ";

http://rough-polished.com/ru/analytics/1937.html


- Harry Winston . "The history of the Harry Winston House is the story of three generations of jewelers. Father Harry - Jacob Winston - opened a jewelry store in Manhattan in 1890. The name Harry Winston is associated with a record number of the largest diamonds ever owned by collectors, royal families and even states. It was in the lapidary workshops of Harry Winston that the famous diamonds "Jonker", "Vargas", "Star of Sierra Leone" and "Taylor-Burton" were born. It was Harry Winston who first decorated the movie stars with glittering diamonds in 1947: since then, none of the Oscar awards ceremony is complete without the adorable ornaments with the hallmark of "Harry Winston". His centenary in 1990, Harry Winston House marked with a truly royal scope,

http://rough-polished.com/ru/analytics/1937.html
At the same time, unlike the mining sector and the lapidary industry, the jewelry market has a barrier that is extremely difficult for the neophytes who want to enter this attractive business. This barrier consists in creating a brand, in this case defined as a system of product identifiers, which allows to link it with the expectations of the target group of consumers. It is a successful solution to this problem that allows you to ensure the necessary level of sales and the corresponding rate of profit. The creation of a jewelry brand, in our opinion, is not directly determined by the number of funds invested in the project, nor by the attraction of new technologies and design solutions. This is primarily a creative information task and it should be solved by appropriate means.

"Marketing Constants" of jewelry brands

What fundamentally distinguishes the brand Bvlgari from Cartier or, for example, Tiffany from Harry Winston? Outstanding quality? Applying the best materials? The skill of jewelers? Exceptionally expressive original design? Fidelity to traditions? Modern technologies? Obviously, any of the above criteria is equally satisfied by any famous jewelry brand. It is impossible to say that the product from Cartier is inferior to the Harry Winston product in the skill of the jeweler or the quality of diamonds. Moreover, all listed criteria are some "marketing constants" necessarily present in the information flow, designed by marketers of the respective companies.

In fact, today with the help of only such "constants" an effective brand can not be designed for quite objective reasons. If even 50 - 100 years ago it made sense to talk about any branded secrets of jewelry mastery, then modern technologies allow "deciphering" a new alloy, or the way of cutting, or the fastening system, etc. during few hours. The original design of the collection remains so only until the appearance of products on the pages of catalogs and on Internet sites.

Generally speaking, "technological complexity" or "new technologies" in jewelry business is a very conventional concept. Due to a number of restrictions imposed, including anthropometric characteristics, jewelry technologies are quite primitive compared, for example, with modern microelectronics. Appropriate equipment is relatively cheap and affordable. Which, by the way, allows mass production of high-quality counterfeit products of famous brands in the APR countries. It is also worth noting that companies - owners of powerful jewelry brands, as a rule, do not disclose information about the place of production of their serial products, which suggests the drift of production in the direction of South-East Asia. It is indicative that today, even in the most technologically complex sector of the jewelry industry - the watch industry, there is a total unification: Mechanisms for almost all known watch brands are made by only three firms: Miyota, Seiko and Eta. Today, jewelry houses in principle can not have any "long-living" original technological and design know-how - competitors are able to intercept any successful novelties literally at the time of their birth.

Thus, the construction of a jewelry brand based on standard "marketing constants" is meaningless today - it is obviously impossible to achieve more competitive "quality", "skill", "design" than that of Cartier and other market leaders. It remains to derive these "constants" from brackets and see what is in the balance and what factors actually determine the effectiveness of the brand.

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Argentum Aurum. Jewelry collections sold under this brand are clearly associated with certain historical periods and, accordingly, with social ideas dominating in these periods. For example, the IMPERIUM ROMANUM collection is given in the following key: "In the collection IMPERIUM ROMANUM the archetypes of antiquity are embodied in replicas of Roman rings and in modern interpretations of ancient culture. Each product has its own history, each of them has a special meaning! In them the fate of a great civilization! The triumphs of Caesar and the glory of Roman arms, the death of the legions of Quintillius Varre and the victory of Trajan! The firmness of princeps and the prowess of a citizen. The memory of the glorious men with their valor gained the glory of the Republic and created the power of the Empire. The greatness of the eagles of the Roman legions, whose iron footsteps remember the lands of the Mediterranean! "

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Duce. A vivid example of the conceptual brand, frankly exploiting some fascist ideas, the fashion for which is clearly now becoming stronger. The epigraph to the advertising texts is an ambiguous quote from the revelations of former Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi: "Mussolini did not kill people, but simply sent them on vacation!".

The very advertising texts are completely transparent: "Duce - a symbol of unity, strength and justice! Duce-style of new leaders! Leaders who are conscious of their mission and represent the people moving forward. Such a leader must speak great words, encourage people to do great things and great ideas. People free, strong, bright and able to fight! For struggle is the source of all things, therefore all life is full of contrasts: love and hatred; White and black; day and night; good and evil; And until these contrasts come to equilibrium, struggle as the highest fatalism will always be the basis of human nature. In the end, it's good that this is so. Today there is a military, economic, ideological struggle, but the day when we would no longer fight would be a day of melancholy, end, destruction. However, this day will not come. If we now return to the world, Tranquility and silence, then the struggle against the current trends of the present dynamic period would begin. We must prepare for new surprises, for a new struggle. We represent moral and spiritual strength. We must have the spirit, and morality, which gives strength to our decisions and compelling obedience. We do not believe in a single solution, be it economic, political or moral; We do not believe in a straightforward solution to life's problems, for life is not straightforward, it can never be reduced to a limited segment of primary needs. We deny the possibility of a materialistic understanding of "happiness," we deny equality: "welfare-happiness," which would turn people into cattle, thinking of one thing: being content and saturated, that is, limited to simple and purely plant life. Our idea is the will to power and domination!

Duce-dictatorship of style! " Of course, the portrait of Benito Mussolini is present on the branded packaging and certificates. In connection with the generally accepted in civilized countries taboo on the swastika, the design of products exploited the theme of Roman imperial symbols, but stylized in such a way as to evoke obvious associations with the heyday of the fascist dictatorships of the twentieth century. Some ornaments (eg cufflinks "Duce") openly copy the stylistics of the uniform rings of SS officers.


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Conceptual brands
The word "conceptual" is often found in publications dedicated to the jewelry business. However, most often this term denotes some designer delights, the essence of which neither the author, nor marketers simply can not clearly formulate. We under the "conceptual" jewelry brand will understand the marketing technology that assumes that the basis for the information flow by which the brand is promoted on the market is not the "Family Company History" or "The Genuine Jeweler's Personality", but the "Global Social Idea" A priori in demand by a wide range of potential buyers.


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Brands of this type, to which one can also include French JAR, Italian Nouvelle Bague , etc. In general, less powerful than the "historical" brands. From the information point of view, they are very vulnerable: the demise or exit from the business of the "genius" that defines the brand can create serious difficulties for its existence. Even the most successful in this class , etc. In general, less powerful than the "historical" brands. From the information point of view, they are very vulnerable: the demise or exit from the business of the "genius" that defines the brand can create serious difficulties for its existence. Even the most successful in this class, H.Stern, aspiring to turn into the "Historical Family Firm", clearly experiences significant difficulties in forming the image of the successor of "genius Hans": "In the 80s. Robert Stern, son of Hans, joined the family business, despite the lack of experience in jewelry production. "Being unfamiliar with decorations, I brought a fresh perspective to the business," says Robert, Who is the creative director of the company. Robert invited his design team to observe the behavior of people, for fashion, art, music. He followed his creative talent, sought new ideas, taught designers to accept every new challenge ... ". Such messages generated by marketers H.Stern, only prove that it is very difficult to persuade the consumer, especially the constant client, that the genius will necessarily be replaced by an even more genius descendant. In this sense, the principle of "continuity of school traditions", characteristic of "historical" brands, and allowing very broad interpretations, gives much more sustainable content than a fantastic "sequence of geniuses."




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De Grisogono . The company was founded in 1993 by Fawaz Gruosi, whose "genius personality" is the basis for the information flow generated by the company's marketers. " Fawaz Gruosi made a career as a jeweler thanks to desperate experiments that always miraculously ended with a complete success with the public ... Fawaz Gruozi, who knows perfectly well both the jewelry market and the work of his rivals, does not now set himself the usual task of hitting devotees,

Offer them something exceptional, something unusual. His "chocolate" items - whether rings, earrings or watches, additionally equipped with diamonds and multi-colored sapphires - have a very read seasonal, glamorous note ... Here comes the familiar Florentine Gruosi, never giving a carnival game failure ... Creative and tireless Fawaz Gruosi was the first in the watch and jewelry world who offered women's watches with bracelets of shagreen ... "; Ananov. Appeared on the market in the early 90-ies of the twentieth century. It is hardly the only Russian world-class jewelry brand. Fully associated with the identity of the founder and owner Andrei Ananov. Theater director for the first specialty, A. Ananov professionally owns the management of information flow. The author of several biographical books, Film and television stories, numerous articles and interviews devoted to their own extravagant adventures, rotation in higher spheres, and, of course, containing brilliant essays on jewelry creation. Andrey Ananov is the  most famous jeweler in Russia. Moreover, he is a social phenomenon, symbolizing our life in recent decades, almost a literary character with stories of theater directing, underground jewelry work, the onslaught of a young capitalist and confidence in the new Russian wealth ... A. Ananov: my goal is not money, the goal is to stay in history Russia as a great Russian jeweler! "



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Brands on the principle of "Genius Jeweler"
This is a class of relatively young, but nevertheless quite successful brands, based on marketing models which are not based on the "History of the Family Firm", but "The Personality of the Genuine Jeweler."

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The work of the American special services allowed us to assume that the source of rough diamonds for the military industry of the Third Reich could be De Beers. This partly confirmed the strange reluctance of Ernst Oppenheimer to take the drains of De Beers to the United States. In this case, their exact composition and volume became known not only to a circle of elected employees of the corporation, and the question of how Germany in the 1930s became a major exporter of a diamond tool - fell away by itself. After receiving the "Belgian file", the US Department of Justice initiated the prosecution of De Beers. But in 1945 the case was closed without any consequences, except for the liquidation of De Beers' accounts in American banks.

This was not the only case of this kind, considered by the American Themis. The US intelligence services assembled an impressive dossier on the world's largest oil company Standard Oil. Details were impressive: German crews on Standard Oil tankers, transshipment bases in the Canaries, where oil was pumped into German tankers, refueling German submarines at specially created island bases, direct deliveries of synthetic rubber to Germany and before and after Pearl Harbor, transfer Nazis technology for the production of synthetic fuel, financial ties with the leader of the Nazi defense industry concern "IG Farbenindustrie", the supply of petroleum products to Germany through Spain and North Africa ... T lko through Franco Nazis received monthly 48 thousand tons of oil Texan! And this is in 1944!

As a result of Senate and judicial investigations, Standard Oil suffered a "well-deserved" punishment for cooperation with Hitler - a fine of 50,000 (fifty thousand) dollars and confiscation of the patents received from IG Farbenindustrie in favor of the state.

The facts of cooperation during the Second World War of the largest transnational corporations with the Nazis have always been a secret of the Polishinel. The scale of this process was so significant and the number of people involved in it is so great that it is impossible to keep this regrettable phenomenon in secret or, at least, it was impossible to consign to oblivion. The invoice for the supply of strategic goods (and the financial provision of these transactions) by Anglo-American corporations to the Third Reich is plentiful and reliable, it is set out in hundreds of articles and pages of impressive monographs like Charles Highham's Trading With The Enemy : An Exposure of The Nazi-American Money Plot 1933-1949, New York, 1983).

What is the reason for this historical paradox, which is obviously incompatible with the notions of morality, patriotism and national interests? Throughout most of the second half of the twentieth century, most researchers categorically responded to this question - the reason was the excess profits. Indeed, the Third Reich was able from time to time to pay for the services of strategic goods suppliers, and to pay generously. Despite the fact that by 1936 the gold and currency reserves of Germany had almost zeroed, and since 1939 the Germans were rapidly losing markets for their main exports (industrial equipment, cars, chemical products, weapons), the seizure of European countries, beginning with the Anschluss of Austria, allowed Hitler to operate Looted gold and other convertible values. This opportunity was provided to the Nazis not without the help of British state structures. In November 1938, the government of Czechoslovakia, reasonably assuming the early occupation of the country by the Germans, forwarded its gold reserves - about 80 tons of noble metal to the cellars of the Bank of England. In March 1939, fully occupied Czechoslovakia, Hitler asked to return this gold. Bank of England Governor Montague Normann and Minister of Finance John Simon asked the Fiihrer to kindly agree. No less strange history occurred with 200 tons of Belgian gold, also returned to the Reich from African colonies, where the Belgian government managed to hide it shortly before the occupation of the country. The very Belgian government (and secret information about the location of the Belgian gold reserve) at that time was in exile - in London. During the occupation of Belgium, the Nazis captured in Antwerp a decent number of diamonds of jewelery quality and diamonds. This expensive product was by no means used for technical purposes. Through large diamond dealers, it was sold in the US, in third countries, dollar accounts were opened, through which the supply of strategic raw materials, including technical diamonds, was paid. For such calculations, also used convertible Swiss francs, which Germany received by placing in the banks of the "Zurich gnomes" the loot (including Holocaust victims) gold. In third countries, dollar accounts were opened, through which the supply of strategic raw materials, including technical diamonds, was paid. For such calculations, also used convertible Swiss francs, which Germany received by placing in the banks of the "Zurich gnomes" the loot (including Holocaust victims) gold. In third countries, dollar accounts were opened, through which the supply of strategic raw materials, including technical diamonds, was paid. For such calculations, also used convertible Swiss francs, which Germany received by placing in the banks of the "Zurich gnomes" looted (including Holocaust victims) gold.

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In the 30s of the last century, the only country that exported raw diamonds, whose government was loyal to Hitler, was Brazil. The rest of the important exporters (primarily South Africa) were either part of the British Commonwealth, and De Beers Corporation directly controlled the production and marketing, or control was carried out through agreements with the CSR (for example, Forminière in the Belgian Congo).

In Brazil in the fall of 1930, as a result of a military coup, charismatic dictator Joselio Vargas came to power, professing ideas close to the end of the "corporate state" Benito Mussolini. Vargas did take a number of steps towards rapprochement with Nazi Germany, but at the same time intensively developed ties with the United States, trying to balance between powerful players. This game was relatively short-lived: in 1938 the radical army circles attempted a fascist putsch and Vargas had to make a choice. After suppressing the putsch, it finally took the side of the US and already in 1942 the Brazilian forces fought in Italy on the side of the Allies.

Brazilian placer diamond deposits were worked out by miners, not united in any large companies. Centralized management of such production, and even more so to predict it, was impossible. A number of attempts to organize industrial mining using modern mining equipment failed for both economic reasons and because of the instability of the political situation in the mining areas. In addition, in alluvial deposits, the percentage of crystals of jewelry quality is usually higher than in indigenous, garimpeiros are interested in just such diamonds, they are not enthusiastic about technical diamonds. Therefore, theoretically, Brazil from 1933 to 1938 could be a source of technical diamonds for the Third Reich, but the source is extremely scarce and unreliable.

Between 1939 and 1944, the world mining of technical diamonds amounted to 54.08 million carats. It is believed that the US military-industrial complex spent about 30 million carats during the Second World War. Since the combined capacity of the military-industrial complex of the United States and its allies was comparable to that of the Axis countries (otherwise the war would not have lasted so long), one should admit, guided by considerations of common sense, that the military-industrial complex of Germany, Italy and Japan needed to annually consume millions of carats of technical diamonds. Obviously, the share of Brazil in these supplies at best is calculated in terms of percents.

Nevertheless, a number of modern sources say that in the German metal-working equipment supplied to the USSR in 1936-1941, Brazilian technical diamonds were used. Moreover, it is argued that the Soviet Union received Brazilian diamonds and direct supplies. Thus, the slippery question of supplying totalitarian powers with strategic material receives a seemingly consistent answer - the source was also a dictatorial regime. Extremely convenient point of view, especially since accurate information on the volume and structure of production and distribution channels of Brazilian garimpeiros does not exist in principle.

Two people could give exhaustive explanations on this problem. The Minister of Armaments of Germany, Albert Speer, was obliged to know from his post how, in what quantity and on what terms the Third Reich received diamonds. He freely writes in Memoirs about the supply, for example, of alloying materials from Norway, Finland, Turkey, but Brazil does not mention a word as a source of strategic raw materials. Speer published the "Memoirs" in 1969, after spending more than 20 years in Spandau as one of the main Nazi criminals. There is no doubt that this book bears the imprint of both external and internal censorship. Is it really for Speer and his censors that the bright image of the Brazilian dictator Joselio Vargas, the second person who could accurately answer the question of interest to us, was so important? Hardly,

Most likely Speer did not mention Vargas for the simple reason that the supply of diamonds from Brazil, if they were, did not play any significant role for the German military industry. The only world market that Brazil could really influence in the 30s and 40s is the coffee market. The resource is important, but infinitely far from the sphere of interests of Speer. An attempt to give the Brazilian dictator an image of a super-player supplying strategic raw materials to the opposing sides of the world conflict looks like a "cover-up operation," a successful masking of a real process in which a completely different player really had such capabilities. But Speer could not mention this player, if (in contrast to Rudolf Hess) after suffering ordeals he wanted to quietly die in his own bed.

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Once Saudi Sheikh Yamani, one of the founding fathers of OPEC, answering the question: "How much does the price of oil depend on OPEC decisions, and how much on market factors?" Remarked: "The first two digits (to the point) are determined by OPEC, and the last (After the decimal point) are fundamental factors. " The idea that modern markets are more or less manageable, shared by almost all players and analysts, this is not a revelation. Problems arise when trying to determine the motives of players capable of generating a control pulse. The postulate of obvious economic expediency, underlying the behavior of any market participant, allows you to create more or less reliable forecasting structures using the conceptual apparatus of technical and fundamental analysis. But from time to time there are data that contradict the usual models.

Virtually all serious sources categorically state that the De Beers Corporation refused to cooperate with Hitler's Germany. The central sales organization of the diamond monopoly blocked the sale of diamonds to the Third Reich, this circumstance had a very negative impact on the development of the German defense industry and served as one of the indirect causes of the military defeat of the Nazi state.

Indeed, De Beers Corporation has always been and remains the pearl of the British crown, headed by the Oppenheimer family - ethnic Jews from Germany and traditionally has close ties with the banking houses of the Rothschilds and Morgan. This, of course, serious circumstances for the emergence of unavoidable contradictions with the author of "Mein Kampf." It was in 1933 (by the time Hitler came to power) that the London Diamond Syndicate was transformed into the Central Sales Organization, whose president was the owner of De Beers, Ernst Oppenheimer. In the 30s - 40s, sales of about 94% of the world diamond mining were carried out through the CSO, so that "De Beers", no doubt, was able to completely cut off the supplies of Germany.

Germany was a pioneer in the use of technical diamonds, first as abrasives for grinding the world's best optics Zeiss. In 1927, Krupp patented the material "Widia" (wie Diamant - "as a diamond"). This agglomerate of tungsten carbide and cobalt has revolutionized metalworking - the speed and purity of cutting the hardest steels have increased by orders of magnitude. But to sharpen the incisors of Widia could only be a diamond tool. Approximately at the same time, German engineering firms create and implement technologies and a diamond tool for finishing honing, which allows increasing the life of motor vehicles, aircraft, tanks and submarines by several times. In turn, there were diamond wire dies for radio electronics and dozens, if not hundreds, of diamond applications in the military-industrial complex.

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